Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Folks, I have come to terms with the vicious dichotomy that I am a cooking purist who really likes short cuts and taking the easy way out.  At times I wonder if I’m maybe just a bit of a culinary “cheater”, but I just don’t think that a special dinner with high quality food needs to take 3 days and 17 steps before it goes from conception to fruition.  For example, this post is a dinner which I’ve tagged “lazybones” because it’s one of those really simple, shortcut meals that come together with a minimal effort and takes only about 40 minutes to get from pan to table.  This is the kind of food which is almost embarrassingly easy to make, and requires as little effort as possible, but the praise that you’ll get?  Whoooeeee, you’ll feel like Thomas Keller on crack as people keep pelting laurels in your general direction.  This is also the kind of dinner where you get to practice acting out that slightly embarrassed modesty, with down-turned fluttering eyelashes and a carefully crafted shoulder shrug, as you say, “Oh, really, it was nothing….”  Your inflection, of course, encourages people to continue the belief that you’ve spent hours slaving over a hot stove just for them, but have far too much grace and class to say so.  The reality of the situation is:  truly, it was nothing.

I wanted to make a special dinner for Mike on Friday, because we’ve both been working quirky hours and haven’t spent much time together lately.  Oh yes, and during the time that we have had I’ve been a bit of a shrew.  Possibly due to sleep deprivation, the changing seasons, or any one of the multitude defenses I pull out of my sleeve to excuse my skeevy crankiness from time to time, but the truth is that I’ve just been acting like a big ol’ jerk, picking fights and poking the bear on a daily basis.  I’ve said it before, but living with me is not easy and Mike truly has the patience of a saint….or, possibly, the ability to tune me out like Charlie Brown’s teacher  until my incessant nagging turns into white noise and guttural honks.  Either way, it’s impressive.

After a week of acting like a harpy with a bone to pick, I thought that I owed my honey an apology dinner.  You know what I’m talking about, right?  It’s those times when, “I made spaghetti and meatballs” actually translates into, “I’m sorry for rear-ending your car and pretending that it got rammed by the shopping cart of a homeless man.”  Oh, or, “I made roast pork – your favorite!” which is a nice substitute for, “you didn’t REALLY like that cat, did you?” There are times when you want to start by talking about feelings and all that crap, and then there are times when you just want to put a plate on the table that says, “I love you, I really do, and although I’ve been frustrating I promise that you’ll like me much more after dinner.”

PS – he still wants to marry me, which points to the effectiveness of this strategy.  Makes sense though, because the smoky-sweet tenderloin in that dark, syrupy wine reduction really was that good.  Heck, I’d marry me too, tantrums or not.

The spice blend that I used as a rub on this tenderloin is a variation of the Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout. Mind you, all ras el hanout, which translates to “top in the shop” is an iteration based on a few core ingredients that was considered to be the best blend that a shopkeeper or spice merchant could give you.  Because it’s a spice blend, the measurements and ingredients used can vary enormously from home to home.  Think of this blend in the same way that you would garam masala or curry powder - everyone makes it just a little bit different, but the main flavors tend to stay more or less consistent.  Ras el hanout can be made with over 30 ingredients, including the more obscure like crushed rosebuds, grains of paradise or even the feverish Spanish fly.  At the core though, you will usually find crushed peppers (paprika, cayenne), cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom and allspice or clove.  The whole spices/roots/seasonings are normally dried or toasted and then they all get ground together into an intoxicating and totally addictive blend.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Serves 4

  • 1 veal tenderloin (about 1 kg/2 lb) *
  • 1.5 tsp cumin powder
  • 1 tsp sweet paprika
  • 1/2 tsp ground ginger
  • 1/2 tsp allspice
  • 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
  • 1/2 tsp turmeric
  • 1/2 tsp ground coriander
  • 1/2 tsp anise seed
  • 1/4 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/4 tsp ground cardamom
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1.5 tbsp olive oil
  • 1/3 cup honey
  • 1.5 cups shiraz **

* I adore the tender, succulent meat of a veal tenderloin, however beef tenderloin or a rack of lamb would be equally delicious.  If you opt for a different meat you will want to adjust cooking times accordingly.  The main reason that I chose veal is not for the sweet and delicate flavor, but rather because it was (surprisingly) the most affordable option.  And hey, special dinners are great and everything, but so is being able to afford gas the next day.

** Alright, so you know my feelings on using expensive wines to cook with.  Even though the wine will be used to make a reduction and the base flavor will really come through, you don’t need to splurge.  You also don’t need to use a shiraz if, for example, you happen to have a nice gutsy cab-sauv open on the counter.  Just choose a rich, flavorful red wine that you want to enjoy with the meal.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

In a small bowl combine all the spices with the salt and pepper.  If you found that you weren’t particularly in the mood to measure out 12 little scoops, that’s okay too.  You can always use 2 tablespoons of a purchased ras el hanout blend.  The Spice Trader carries an absolutely delectable blend if you wanted to splurge and spend $10.95 on 45 grams.  You can guess my feelings on that one, but if I had a limitless disposable income I’d be one of their best customers.  If you’re using a purchased ras el hanout blend, simply stir in the salt and pepper.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Sprinkle the spice blend all over the tenderloin and really pat it in well.  Before you season meat and seafood it is a common practice to pat it down and dry it off first, but that’s not a good idea when it comes to dry rubs.  The natural moisture on your meat will help the spice blend to adhere, which means that you can really slather it on nice and thickly to coat the meat.

If you have time, let the meat rest in it’s spicy cloak for about 30 minutes at room temperature so that the flavors can start to penetrate.

Preheat your oven to 300ºF.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Heat the oil in a heavy bottomed pan over high heat.  You want the pan hot enough to sear your meat, so a good test is either when the oil just starts to smoke or when you can only hover your hand 1-2 inches above the pan for a count of “3 steamboats”.  Carefully lay the tenderloin into the pan (try to avoid painful splatters) and sear it quickly on all sides.  As soon as the outside is nicely browned, which will take 3-4 minutes in total, tuck the tenderloin into a shallow roasting pan (or on a lipped baking sheet, which is my low-tech operations style) and tuck it into the center of your oven.  The tenderloin will need to cook for 25-40 minutes, depending on the desired doneness that you want to achieve.  I wanted our tenderloin to be somewhere after medium rare but before medium well, because although we like our steak quite rare Mike isn’t as familiar with veal and I wanted to ease him into the meat.  For our doneness the slow roast at a low temperature still only took about 35 minutes.

More importantly, however, we should talk about the sauce.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

As soon as you have taken the tenderloin out of the pan, even before you tuck the meat into the oven, turn the heat under your pan down to medium and pour in the wine.  Stir this up quickly as it froths and squeaks, because you’re both de-glazing the pan (snatching all the flavor from those crusty browned bits stuck to the bottom and incorporating them into the sauce) and starting to reduce your wine.  Pour in the honey and let the mixture bubble away until it has reduced to about 2/3 cup.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

When the sauce has reduced to a syrupy consistency, it’s done.  The best way to check?  Run your spoon along the bottom of the pan.  If it can create a clear streak before quickly filling in, the sauce is ready.  Take it off the heat and cover the pot with a lid until you’re ready to plate up the meat.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Now then, back to the tenderloin.  When you’re cooking veal tenderloin you want to treat it more like beef than you would like pork.  The meat is quite lean and should not be overcooked.  However, like I said before, somewhere between a medium-rare to medium-well will yield juicy, flavorful meat that has enough pink to satisfy a bloody carnivore like me whilst still being palatable to your fussier guests.

If you have a meat thermometer, a good rule of thumb is to take the tenderloin out when it is between 128-142ºF.  Tent the meat with tin foil and let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing in.  The internal temperature will continue to rise a few degrees after it is cooked, so if you stay at the lower end of the scale it will end up rising to about 130-132ºF  (medium rare).  If you opted to cook the meat a little bit more and head for the higher side of the scale, it will end up at about 145-150ºF (medium well).  Keep an eye on it to make sure that the meat doesn’t overcook and dry out, but beyond that veal is quite forgiving.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

After the beef has rested long enough for the juices to redistribute, plate it up by overlapping a few fat slices on your plate and drizzling the honeyed shiraz sauce overtop.

In terms of side dishes, I wanted to complement the exotic spice rubbed veal, smothered in a sweet honeyed wine sauce, but still keep that “roast beef and potatoes” feel.   Ergo, it got plated up with a mound of creamy garam masala mashed potatoes and a simple lemony braised kale.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

As far as apology dinners go, this one knocks it out of the park.  Veal tenderloin is so tender and supple that it’s just got romance written all over it, and when you pair that with a deep and delicious sweet shiraz sauce?  All your sins from the previous week become tabula rasa.  True story.

Now pardon me while I go and sip some St. John’s Wort tea, because my attitude and behavior need to improve significantly before I try to feed him tofu again on Tuesday.

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz

Moroccan Spiced Tenderloin with Honeyed Shiraz
  • Trasherati

    Tina, I wish you’d just write a cookbook already – my list of bookmarked pages is getting pretty lengthy…
    That is totally a compliment and a “thank you” phrased as a nag, btw.

  • Beth

    Tina- how do you think this would work with pork? I have a pork tenderloin in my freezer and I’d love to give it this treatment but I’m not sure if the flavors would mesh? (I’m kind of a cooking neophite, I’m trying to expand from my fall back basics.)

  • http://www.pureluxury.com Gina

    Looks easy and delicious! Definitely going to be a new addition to my recipes that say thank you for putting up with me!

  • http://muskegharpy.blogspot.com/ Jacquie

    Gah, you and your awesome spice mixtures. Do you just throw this together? I’m very impressed. (I buy spices in bulk when I’m down south and tend to forget about them until a 1/2 pound bag of tumeric or star anise falls on my head.) How do you know what goes well together and/or in what proportion? I’m always afear-d of creating something inedible so I stay with my tried-and-true (dull) combos.

    This is totally going to be used on some deer. I’m always looking for new and interesting ways to cook game.

    Oh, and isn’t kale awesome? I love braised kale.

  • http://www.choosy-beggars.com Tina

    Trasherati – a cookbook would be the gift that keeps on giving. Literally. As in, I would be giving it to everyone i know for their birthday….and Christmas…….and Easter….. and possibly still trying to get rid of the over stock ;)

    Beth – this would be DELIGHTFUL with pork tenderloin!!!! I would use 2 tenderloins (mostly because I’m greedy) or 1 pork loin and adjust the time. For pork tenderloin, when I roast it in the oven I cook it at about 400 for 20 minutes. With the outside sear, even though the temperature is lower it still likely wouldn’t need more than 15 minutes to cook through. Let me know if you try!!!

    Gina – aw, thanks! It seems that lately I need to have a lot of those,,,,,,

    Jacquie – so here’s the thing about Middle Eastern or other exotic tasting spice mixes: they’re really, REALLY hard to mess up. If you have a rough idea of what goes in there you can play away to your heart’s content. The other consideration is dilution. If you’re making a spice blend with 3 ingredients, you want to watch the ratios really closely. Oh, or even if there are multiple ingredients but one or two are really strongly flavored. But when you’re mixing up 6-10 spices and they’re all pungent and delicious? You can honestly just wing it sometimes and see where you land. The first try may not be perfect, but I bet it will still be tasty……. ;)

  • http://www.erikorganic.com/dining-room/dining-room-set.shtml dining room set

    This looks easy! I got to try and perfect this so that it would be present on the dining table come Christmas!

  • Christine

    I see that one of the comments above includes some possible modifications for making this recipe with pork instead. However I think it would be really great to (in the future) post the original recipe with optional modifications already included for those of us who do not want to eat tortured baby animals (a.k.a. veal). Sorry to be the Debbie-downer in the room (or on the website) but I find it irresponsible to encourage others to seek out veal, when we know that the veal industry encourages some of the worst cases of animal cruelty, which has been thoroughly documented and proved to be true. While some may be aware of this, others may not and will unknowingly buy veal because of your recipe. You may not see the problem of this, but I do encourage you to learn about the ingredients you’re using before suggesting others use them as well.

    Let’s face it: there are alternatives to eating veal out there. I think we should use them. As a fellow foodie and blogger, I just think that we should be responsible in how we affect others’ diets & food choices.

    • http://www.choosy-beggars.com Tina

      Christine – thank you for your comment. I agree that if somebody would prefer an alternative to veal, there are several great options. You saw the suggested modification of using pork tenderloin in the comment section, but I think you might have missed other mods were actually listed in the original recipe (beef, lamb). If you read through you’ll find them right underneath the ingredient list.

      If you were discussing the mass-market veal processing industry, you’re correct – there have been (and continue to be) practices that many of us would consider to be cruel. However, that’s a token standard for the mass-market meat processing industry as a whole. If you read up on chickens, they don’t exactly lead a life of glamor. Have you stopped buying chicken though? Or have you moved to buying free range chicken or animals from farms with humane life cycle and slaughtering practices? Where I live we have very limited access to these products, but I understand that in the USA they are readily available from a number of reputable chain stores. Along with most other food bloggers, I encourage people to seek out these options if they are accessible.

      Christine, you need to understand that the articles posted on this site are like a snap shot into our home and what we’re eating/drinking at any given time. If you prefer not to use an ingredient we’ll always provide you with alternatives. However, I will not make that decision for you, nor for any of our readers. I would encourage you, if you are a fellow foodie and blogger, to continue sharing information that you consider to be educational. However I caution you not to be dismissive or imply that your audience is not educated enough to make these decisions on their own.

  • Stephanie

    Tina — your post is hilarious. You made my husband cry. All this time, he thought he was the only one who had to live with the changeable woman. Now he knows he’s not alone. We’re going to do a pork tenderloin with the moroccan rub — with no hidden meanings, just happy new year glad to be with you! Best, Stephanie